Fisterre - The End of The World

Barb and I took the bus to Fisterre on Friday while Ian headed to Bilbao and San Sabastian. Ian was keen to spend some time at Frank Gehry's Guggenheim Museum while we wanted to keep with the Pilgrim's tradition of travelling the see the Atlantic Ocean at what was once thought of in Spain, as Lands End.

According to Wiki:

Cape Finisterre is sometimes said to be the westernmost point of the Iberian Peninsula. However, this is not true, since Cabo da Roca, in Portugal, actually the westernmost point of Continental Europe, is about 16.5 km farther west. The name of Cape Finisterre, like that of Finistère in France, derives from the Latin name Finisterrae, which literally means "Land's End".

We had a lovely bus ride which followed the coast for several hours prior to arriving in the small town of Fisterre. The Cape of Finisterrae is a peninsula which has spectacular scenery and beaches. Near the end of the peninsula is Monte Facho and beyond that a small hotel and lighthouse. There are also several spectacular beaches. I assure the place is swarmed with people in the hot months of July and August, but now the place is pretty deserted. There are just a few Peregrinos wandering around town.

We settled into a really cozy hotel (Barb was happy to see a bathtub instead of the usual shower). Next door was a little bar where the owner played guitar and sang Spanish songs.

On Friday we walked out to the western beach over the hill on the other side of town. It had been raining, but as if we were granted a wish, the clouds cleared and the sun came it as we set out. I can't do justice to the landscape with words and I am sure my pictures don't do it justice, but they will have to do.

 

 

 

 

 

An hour before sunset it clouded over. Maybe we will get lucky with a beautiful sunset tonight or tomorrow night. We have decided to stay until Monday.

On Saturday we set off from town in the other direction around the cape, toward the lighthouse. The views cannot be described. After exploring the area of the lighthouse and climbing out to the point of land which is as far as you can go on the penninsula, we climbed Monte Facho, elevation 238 m. We wound our way back from the opposite side of the mountain, down what seemed to be goat tracks.

 

 

 

 

 

Can you see the lighthouse fade into the distance?

 

 

We are at the peak of Monte Facho. You can see the two sides of the penninsula.

 

 

 

 

the same beach as we sat on yesterday, watching the sunset.

Back to civilization! Tonight there is a fiesta! Tomorrow we explore the long beach which spans 2 or 3 km just before you reach the town.

Santiago de Compostella - Day 39

We set off this morning at about 9:00 a.m. and made the slowest journey of 8 km of the whole trip. Part of it was that Ian had caught up with us and was suffering from tendonitis so could only walk slowly. The other reason was that we stopped twice for a beer. Normally we walk at least 8 or 10 km before we stop for even one break, I can't help but think that we really were not anxious to get to Santiago and have the trip end. Yes, there is no doubt that at least 2 of the 3 of us are really to be glad to end the walking, but ending the trip means getting back to normal routines and for at least Barb and Ian, back to the reality of the day to day grind in just a week's time. Once we cross the finish line it is back to reality.

We are still up in the air about the next week. Barb may do some more walking, Ian may or may not come to Fisterre so we will see.

As I said to Barb, I am just about out of words just now, so I will just upload some pictures and provide a bit of commentary and save insights until I have collected my thoughts.

Ian left his Albergue at 6:00 a.m. In order to catch up with Barb and I. This was taken as we set out from the hotel.

The weather has been glorious!

Our first glimpse at Santiago.

Barb administering first aid to Ian.

 

Our first beer break. Ok, not beer, beer and lemonade.

2.5 km to go!

The entrance to the plaza and the Cathedral.

We are standing in front of the Cathedral just as we arrived.

This is my credential with a stamp at each place we stayed and the final one, for Santiago.

My certificate, called a Compostela.

 

Lavacolla - Day 38

Another grey and cold day but no rain so all was good. Barb and I lingered over breakfast, as did a few of the others staying at the Albergue/Hotel. Some were walking the full distance today and would be in Santiago by dinner time. A few of us have planned to stay a short distance from the city, so that we can walk into Santiago in the morning and catch the Pilgrim's mass at the Cathedral at noon.

While the walk was a short one - only 18 km, there were a lot up ups and downs as there seems to be endless hills on the Frances route.

The walk was lovely through a good deal of old pine and eucalyptus forest. There were a few villages to stop for a bite of lunch.

Somewhere along the road we came across a young dog. We said our hellos and walked on but it soon became apparent that he was lost and looking for a friend. He followed us for 5 or 6 km and we were very concerned as the dog was whimpering and worse yet, it didn't seem to have any car sense. The dog just followed along with us Peregrinos, staying close to whomever looked friendly. Barb and I tried to distance ourselves from the dog as we did not want to be witness what we were sure would be a bad end when he ran out in front of a car, but several times he caught up with us. At last, when we were nearly at our hotel, we were able to get behind him when he started following some folks in front of us. We took care to walk slowly so as not to catch up with him. I hope he made it to Santiago safely.

We passed the Santiago Airport today. We are so close, it seems like we are already there. Victory is in the air.

We settled into our Casa Rural, Casa Amancio, just on the other side of Lavacolla and quietly went through the ritual of shower and clothes washing then settled down for a siesta. The place is nice enough, sort of like little alpine chalets arranged around a courtyard. It was 40€ for a double , which included a separate room with a couch and a little kitchenette. There is a dining room which we will check out for dinner.

Tomorrow is our last day of walking and both of us are wondering about how we feel having finished such an amazing journey. Certainly we need time to reflect on the accomplishment.

Me, I am glad to be finished. Today I got a new blister on my heel, which reminds me that there has been a lot of wear and tear on my feet and that both my brain and my feet are tired of the walking. I have lost a bit of weight, not lots but some. I will have to wait until I am near scales to see how much. I know my legs are a lot trimmer and I have lost inches from my waist. That said, if I continue to consume as many calories as I have become used to eating, I will gain back the wait plus more.

Tonight I think, will be a night of reflection. We have walked about 850 km. Has that changed us in any way? What have we actually accomplished?

We are waiting to here how far Ian has gotten, but unless he got much further than planned, I expect that he will arrive in Santiago in the afternoon as he will have 20 km to walk. Barb and I will be heading into Santiago first thing in the morning. We only have an 8 km walk, so we should be there before 10 a.m.

As I write this, just before dinner, the sky has cleared and the sky is pure blue. It is going to be a great day tomorrow. Quite fitting, don't you think?

Posada de Salceda Day 37

The mornings are pretty routine in the Albergues and this morning was no different, except Barb was in a different dorm room than Ian and I. Normally, there are a few early birds who quietly (or not so quietly) pack their things and slip out of the Albergue at 5:30 or 6 a.m. Then at some point usually around 6:15 or 6:30 the main group start to stir and then someone flips on the lights. Usually, most everyone starts getting up and ready to leave then, except the die hard sleepers who pull the covers over their heads and curse the noise of rustling while everyone else makes their getaway. Everyone had to be gone from the Albergue by 8 or sometimes, if you are lucky, 9 a.m.

This morning Ian and I were blessed with a little bit of a lie in, since the crowd of Peregrinos with which we shared a room seemed to be mostly late sleepers and no one turned on the light. So it was after 7:30 when we were re day. Ian and I grabbed a bite of breakfast at the cafe and were off about 8:30. Barb was already on her way by the time we surfaced, I guess she had a room full of early risers.

 

As always it is upward toward the next hill (there are no more real mountains), as we leave town. This phot was taken looking back at Melida as we left town.

The day was pretty cold and grey, but that is what I have been expecting from Galicia. We passed the 50 k way marker just outside Melide.

These days we don't walk together much and so when I had to stop for a toilet break, Ian forged ahead. I had in mind to go about 20 k and then look for an Albergue, although I was tempted to quit when I went through Arzua, I pressed ahead.

I noticed several rest stops along the way, although it was too cold to want to stop.

Today I noticed lemon trees with beautiful yellow fruit seemingly ready for picking.

I managed to pass the 30 k marker at about 2:30, but it was getting late for walking and the next Albergue was still a good distance ahead. It started to rain just outside of Azua.

By the time I'd reached Postada de Saceda at 3:30 the Alberge was full. The next Albergue is over 6 k ahead and possibly it too was full. I decided to check into the hotel which adjoined the Albergue. What a treat! It is really nice to have my own single room, with real sheets, a TV and a privat bath! It was 35€ though, but given how nice the place is I think The price is right.

The best part is that I have discovered that Barb is I the Albergue in town so I will be able to meet her for dinner. Ian however decided to stay in the town of Azua, so he will be about 9 k behind us tomorrow.